Day 5 - Ibusuki to Kirishima
123.8 KM Elevation: 1021 Meters Riding 7:16 Hr
We were up again around 4:00 am, roused by the pounding rain and the familiar tension of decision day. What should we do—ride or regroup? Matt, ever the committed domestique, had already made up his mind. Like a true mailman, he was channeling the motto: "Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds." Meg and Linda were still weighing their options and would need to wait until breakfast to see who was suiting up.
At breakfast, it became clear: the peloton would split. Some arrived in shorts and T-shirts—an obvious tell. Five of us would saddle up and brave the deluge and the lingering ash from Mount Sakurajima’s eruption on May 15–16, while the others sought alternative transportation to Kirishima.
Meet Team Kyushu:
Joel – Teacher, Organizer
Simon H. – Navigator, Mountain Goat
Tadao – Stealth, Pocket Rocket
Trent – Aussie Punter, Rouleur (All-rounder)
Eric – Gadget Guy, Mechanic
Eden – Van Man
Meg – Spin Sister, Queen of the Mountains
Simon B. – Team Photographer, Historian
Linda – Giggle Gal
Matt – Domestique
The three of us, Simon H. and Simon B. set off early, aware that we could be cycling through as much as 125–150 mm (5 to 6 inches) of rain. We aimed to catch a 7:30 am ferry, but just 5 km into the ride, Joel called and all ferries were cancelled due to the storm. Undeterred, we returned to the hotel, mapped out a new coastal route, and peddled on into the driving rain, skirting the dramatic, cloud-shrouded base of the Kagoshima volcano. Though the summit was hidden, ash still drifted from its recent eruption.
We took our first break at a Lawson’s convenience store 40 km in. Japan’s konbini are lifesavers, offering everything from food and drinks to daily necessities, cosmetics, and even ATMs. After refueling, we pushed on to our second Lawson’s lunch stop in Kirishima. By then, we had already logged 90 km, with another 30 to go.
The rain didn’t just soak us, it also sabotaged our tech. Matt’s phone and GPS failed completely. Simon B. tried navigating with his phone in his pocket and headphones, but it was a comedy of missed turns. Finally, Simon H., our trusty Navigator, suggested we stick to main roads. Less scenic, more reliable.
We climbed steadily along a river valley for the final 20 km, our legs were heavy and spirits a bit soggy. Fog thickened as the light faded. Just when we were flagging, Eden and the van appeared like a beacon. With some encouragement and roadside guidance, we made our final push.
Finally, we arrived in Kirishima, drenched, exhausted, but triumphant. The onsen that evening felt more like a medal ceremony than a soak with every ache and chill melting away.
It was a day that truly tested us, but also reminded us why we all love to ride: not for perfect weather or easy roads, but for the adventure, the grit, and the great memories we make along the way.
Sayonora,
Matt, Linda and Meg
