Day 1 - Nagasaki to Amakusa
(92.8 km | 900 m climbing | 5.15 hrs in the saddle)
After a night of rattling windows and rain hammering the hotel façade, dawn finally pried us from a restless sleep. We began our 13-day bikepacking adventure through the breathtaking landscapes of Kyushu (九州), Japan’s southern peninsula. This cycling tour offers a chance to immerse ourselves in Japan's stunning scenery and cultural richness.
Central to this journey is the concept of “Ichi go Ichi e” (一期一会) — a beautiful Japanese philosophy that reminds us to Treasure every moment as a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Each encounter, each sight, and each shared memory is unique.
This ride started with a steep descent on extremely wet surfaces in the dense fog. Setting out from Nagasaki, the ride begins with an 200m climb through a series of safely navigable tunnels on the Himi Pass west of the city. After clearing the tunnels and descending Highway 34, the route breaks to the right onto the 251 over Yagamio Bridge as it crosses the Hachiro River. Once through Toishimachi, a series of rolling hills brings you to beautiful views overlooking Tachibana Bay and Mt. Unzen.
After a 30km push up we were rewarded with one of the nicest stretches of road we’ve encountered in Kyushu, the small and car-free 201, which hugs the coast to the west of Sara-ku Natural Park. This 7km stretch follows an old railway line, winding through small tunnels and quiet seaside towns before reconnecting with the 251 in the town of Obama, the famous onsen town. Not only does this town share a name with the 44th president of the United States, but it’s also home to one of the hottest and most active hot springs in all of Japan. This was evident from the steam rising through city grates and billowing wildly from seafood restaurants, making use of the natural heat.
From here, the final 25km to the ferry crossing follows the coast along quiet, rolling roads, passing through interesting tunnels and the striking Futago rock formation. A ferry crossing on a bike trip always evokes a mix of excitement and concern. Excitement because ferries are just plain fun, and concern because rough weather can sometimes lead to cancellations. Fortunately, on this day, the 20-minute ride from Kuchinotsu to Oniike proved to be operational, smooth, and enjoyable As with all ferries in Japan, bikes are happily waved aboard alongside car traffic and safely secured to the deck by the accommodating and curious staff.
Once on Shimoshima Island, we rode the final 15km (including a chance to ride through rice fields) to our hotel in the small town of Amakusa. Our hotel is named Santa Coming Hotel. Amakusa has cherished and celebrated Christmas since the arrival of Western culture about 450 years ago, regardless of the historical backdrop. Recognised officially as a "Holy Land of Santa Claus" by the "Greenland International Santa Claus Association," Amakusa stands as one of the regions that deeply values the festive spirit.
Dinner was memorably hands‑on: a cosy Korean spot where we sat around a sunken table, grilling our own meat and vegetables over a charcoal stove. We raised our beers, sours and highballs to a jubilant kampai! to surviving Day 1’s wind, water, and wonder.
Exhausted but exhilarated, we tumbled into bed with legs humming and hearts full—already convinced that every kilometre of Kyūshū will offer a new, unrepeatable memory. Ichi‑go ichi‑e, indeed.
Sayonora,
Matt and Linda
