Day 2 - Amakusa - Akune

Distance: 87 km | Elevation: 873 m | Saddle Time: 4.26 hrs

We started our day bright and early at 4:12 AM perhaps not ideal, but it gave us time to catch up on emails, social media, and news before tending to laundry and preparing for an essential part of Japanese culture: the onsen. We reminded ourselves that we need to appreciate Japanese culture even if we don’t agree or understand, and we’re here to understand.

For those unfamiliar, an onsen is a traditional Japanese hot spring bath. The water is naturally heated and contains minerals like lithium, sulphur, sodium chloride, and iron - believed to offer healing and rejuvenating properties (especially after a long day of biking!). It’s more than just a bath; it's a moment to shed our self-consciousness and immerse ourselves (literally and figuratively) in Japanese culture. What began as a cultural curiosity is quickly becoming a treasured ritual.

By 7:00 AM, we gathered for a quick breakfast, checked our bikes, and began pedaling south toward Ushibuka. Our first cultural stop was a Shinto shrine (a Japanese religion that means respect for the gods), where Tadao, one of our team members, introduced us to a traditional prayer ritual. With hands clapping twice, a respectful bow, a moment of prayer and a wish, another clap, and a final bow, we embraced the spiritual rhythms of Japan with open minds and hearts.

Back on our bikes, we traced the scenic coastline, passing rice fields before tackling a damp and leafy climb. The descent reminded us of Day One, careful, deliberate, and beautiful. We regrouped at the base, thankful to report no falls and only two tire punctures.

After a brief tire repair, we resumed our ride through gentle rolling hills and quaint Shirakawa (small villages). Just before our next climb, the sound of a wild boar in a live trap startled us, an unexpected brush with nature!

The final 25 km took us along the coastline through more undulating terrain. About 5 km from Ushibuka, we stumbled upon a smoked fish factory, a sensory rich stop before catching the ferry across.

The last leg to Akune was defined by a series of 2–3 km hills, with grades ranging from 4–8%. A notable highlight was crossing the Kuronoseto Bridge, which spans the Kuronoseto Strait, known for its swirling whirlpools and rapid currents, such a spectacular sight.

We arrived in Akune and, unsurprisingly, made a beeline for the onsen (We’re beginning to like this tradition!). Afterward, we capped off the day with a delicious local dinner and a taste of sweet potato shochu, a beloved Japanese distilled spirit.

Another day of adventure, discovery, and camaraderie in Kyushu. Tomorrow, the journey continues!

Sayonora,

Matt & Linda