Day 13 - Nakatsu to Fukuoka
Distance: 83 km Elevation 660 m Ride Time 6.6 hours
It’s hard to believe, but we made it to Day 13! Our final leg of this incredible journey through Kyushu. One last climb out of Japan’s lush countryside stood between us and Fukuoka, the vibrant capital of northern Kyushu, known for its rich history, buzzing food scene, and warm hearted locals.
Our hotel didn’t serve breakfast until 8:00 a.m, but with Eden needing to catch a flight later in the day, we had to get moving early. Quick on his feet, JD called an audible, and we rerouted to a Starbucks in Nakanoshimamachi Hita, about 15 kilometers away.
The morning ride kicked off with a climb and a tunnel near the summit, an intense combination in the thick of morning traffic. A bit unnerving, to say the least! We regrouped, found some quieter side roads, and were soon surrounded by the peaceful charm of the Onta region, home of Ontayaki pottery, with its distinctive geometric patterns and centuries old craft tradition.
We rolled into a brand new Starbucks and enjoyed a well earned break. We treated ourselves to oat milk lattes and chocolate scones (heavenly!), while the others powered up with espresso and protein packed bites. Then it was back on the road, next stop: Fukuoka.
The final leg took us through a patchwork of urban centers, Tagawa, Fukuchi, and beyond where we cycled alongside the Hikoyama and Nakamotoji Rivers as they flowed from the sacred Mount Hiko. We made our way through Iizuka and Kasuya before finally reaching our destination.
This last push required total focus. It wasn’t the most scenic ride of the trip, but there was a raw energy in the busy roads, city lights, and constant movement. When we reached our hotel, “The Basics” (a name that belies its stylish vibe), we rolled into the underground parking, hugged, high-fived, and quietly soaked in the accomplishment. We disassembled and packed our bikes one last time and headed up to check in.
After a quick shower, we made our way to a local salarymen spot for a quick small bite and a well earned drink. We had skipped lunch, but no one seemed to mind as we saved our appetites for a special memorable Japanese dinner guided by Eden’s local friend Ngoshi.
Reflections from Japan: A Journey of Beauty, Balance, and Bento Boxes
The past few weeks in Japan have been nothing short of eye-opening. This country is a beautiful blend of tradition, precision, and subtle charm, and it's left quite the impression on us.
There’s something truly refreshing about the Japanese way of life. The politeness, the deep-rooted genuine respect for others, and the concept of ikigai, finding joy and purpose in the everyday are incredibly inspiring. We are hoping to bring a little of that spirit back home with us.
One of the things that struck us most was how active and vibrant the elderly population is. It was both heartwarming and motivating to see older adults out and about, participating in daily life with such energy.
The landscapes were just as impressive. The countryside ranges from lush, untamed greenery to perfectly manicured gardens, even towering trees shaped with the care and precision of oversized bonsai. And if Kyushu had a theme, it would be water, it’s everywhere, flowing freely and beautifully through the land.
Now, let’s talk concrete. The Japanese seem to love it! From bridges to embankments, it’s a prominent feature, often blending into the surroundings more than you would expect.
The food? Absolutely divine. It is unlike anything we are used to, not just in flavor, but in its sheer nutritional value. The tofu alone deserves a standing ovation, and every meal looked like a work of art. Honestly, it felt like eating from a gallery.
And yes, alcohol is surprisingly affordable. We may have fallen a little in love with the refreshing simplicity of a lemon sour.
We came to love the daily ritual of putting on yukata (bathing robe) and slippers, and heading to relaxing onsen at the end of the day.
Efficiency is a national trait, everything runs like clockwork. Timekeeping is serious business. At one restaurant, we had exactly 90 minutes to eat and drink, and not a minute more! But everything ran smoothly, with a calm sense of order that we have come to appreciate.
One of the most delightful surprises was how safe we felt, everywhere, all the time. Even as a cyclist, the respect from drivers was remarkable. And when in need of a quick snack or a quirky find, Lawson’s and 7-Eleven became our trusty go to spots. We never thought we would bond with a convenience store, but here we are.
Our cycling group was just fantastic, kind, fun, and supportive. Huge thanks to Joël and Masami for organizing such a seamless and unforgettable adventure. The group dynamic made the journey even more special.
Despite the language barrier, we have felt surprisingly at ease here. Between Google Translate and the universal language of hand gestures, everything worked out just fine.
Joel summed it up perfectly:
“Huge thanks for joining the 2025 Kyushu Tour, 13 days of adventure, laughs, sweat, snacks, and the occasional questionable vending machine purchase. Apart from a couple of rogue weather days, we pretty much outran the elements like pros.
I hope you all discovered corners of Japan you will never forget (and maybe a few calf muscles you didn’t know you had).”
Massive shoutout to Eden for navigating like a GPS with personality, and to Masami, the master planner and all-around legend, for pulling it all together”.
From the kiwi contingency, we are so grateful for this adventure of a lifetime and we are already looking forward to welcoming Joël and any of the others to Mangawhai someday. We owe you all a slice of New Zealand magic in return. ❤️
Until the next adventure...
“jya mata ne” (We will see you soon!)
Matt, Linda and Meg
