Day 12 - Beppu to Nakatsu
Distance: 71.9 km | Ride Time: 3 hrs 33 min | Elevation Gain: 1039 m
After a memorable night in Beppu, complete with our own private dining room and a few too many farewell drinks for Trent, we hit the road to Nakatsu. The GPS offered us three routes, and after some quick deliberation, we opted for the shorter path with more elevation and less traffic. Naturally, we missed a turn early on, rerouted, and started again, classic us.
Soon we found ourselves grinding up a tough 5 km ascent, with gradients pushing 15% at times. A solid 400 meters of elevation later, we crested the hill and were rewarded with quiet, scenic backroads. As we caught our breath and soaked in the view, Simon B. slung his backpack onto Matt’s shoulders with a grin and remarked, “Here’s a little bonus weight for the next time you pick the route with the most elevation!” The group burst out laughing, classic trail banter at its finest.
We regrouped at a 7-Eleven (our other support stop besides Lawsons), grabbed some snacks and coffee, and braced ourselves for the second climb of the day. This one was a gentler 5–9% incline, winding through forested hills with rocky outcrops and a soundtrack of birdsong which was absolutely stunning.
The reward? A glorious downhill cruise along a pristine river. The roadside was lined with vibrant greenery, and we were constantly on the lookout for fish darting through the water and yes, we spotted a few!
About 12 km out from Nakatsu, we stopped for lunch. When in the "holy land" of karaage (Japanese fried chicken), there’s only one real choice. Nakatsu’s famed Karaage (中津唐揚げ) is known throughout Japan, and let us tell you, this crispy, juicy roadside takeout did not disappoint. It was the bomb!
Bellies full and spirits high, we cruised the final stretch into Nakatsu, nestled in the northeastern corner of Oita Prefecture. This historic town is bursting with character and sights, including:
Yabakei Gorge – A lava plateau carved by the Yamakuni River, stretching over 36 km with eight uniquely shaped rock formations at Hitome Hakkei, each one a geological masterpiece.
Aonodomon Tunnel – Legend has it a determined monk spent 30 years chiseling this tunnel by hand to create a safer route to Rakanji Temple. Now that’s commitment.
We arrived at our hotel with time to spare, just enough to check emails and touch base with loved ones before diving into the onsen. After a good soak, it was off to town for some beers and snacks before dinner.
All in all, a cracking day. One of tonight’s highlight? The NRL State of Origin, Maroons vs. Blues. Some of us are staying up for the action; others are opted for some well earned sleep. Hard to believe we have only got one more day of riding left. Time flies when you are pedaling through paradise!
Mata ne! (See you later!)
Matt, Linda and Meg
