Day 8 - Hyuga to Takachiko
Distance: 83 km Ride Time: 3 hrs 55 mins Elevation Gain: 1114 m
We gathered bright and early at 7:00 a.m. for breakfast, the TV humming in the background in fast-paced Japanese. While most of us couldn’t understand a word, Joel, Erik, Trent, and Simon H were oddly transfixed and for good reason. The forecast? Over 180 mm (that’s more than 7 inches!) of rain, high winds, lightning, and mudslide warnings. Not exactly prime cycling weather.
Faced with nature’s obstacles, we took a vote: shuttle or cycle? The majority leaned toward hopping in a van to our next stop, Takachiho. But not all were ready to throw in the towel. Matt, ever the adventurer, pushed for pedalling on and eventually, he, Simon H, and Linda saddled up to brave the storm. Joel and Eric quickly mapped out an alternate route to avoid closures, and the determined trio set off.
Rain came down in sheets, soaking us to the bone and blinding our visibility. We tucked our phones and GPS devices into plastic bags and relied on memory and instinct to navigate. The plan was simple: roads 226 → 388 → 218. But simplicity met reality, and a missed turn had us overshoot 388 by 4 km. We realized our error and stopped short of veering onto an expressway (not exactly legal for bikes!). After rerouting, we rejoined a quieter road that offered not only safety but breathtaking, lush scenery along Gokase river.
About 40 km in, our van of other bikers cheered us on, pulling over to offer coffee and snacks. Refreshed and grateful, we pressed forward through a series of 12 tunnels, a welcome break from the rain, though a bit unnerving with passing traffic. With 15 km to go, we stopped at a car garage for a quick break and met a bright, curious 14-year-old boy eager to practice his English. His sister snapped photos as he admired Simon H’s bike. They even offered us food and drinks, an incredibly kind gesture we respectfully declined before moving on.
Near the final stretch, with just 9.5 km left, Joel and Eric came to our rescue. Two massive tunnels (2.4 km and 4.2 km) where bicycles weren’t allowed lay ahead. We loaded up, drove the final distance, and finally arrived in Takachiho, ready for warm showers, hot food, and a little exploration.
Meanwhile, the van group had already hit the ground running (or walking). They explored the mystical Takachiho Shrine, a sacred place surrounded by towering cedar trees.
Nestled deep in the mountains of Kyushu’s Miyazaki Prefecture, Takachiho is steeped in myth and natural beauty. It's famed for the Takachiho Gorge, a dramatic chasm carved by the Gokase River, where sheer basalt cliffs twist like dragon scales. The 17-meter-high Minainotaki waterfall cascades into the gorge, framed by emerald foliage and grey stone. A truly magical sight.
Takachiho is also a spiritual haven. Said to be the setting of some of Japan’s oldest myths, it exudes a calm, mystical energy. Every night, the thousand-year-old Takachiho Shrine hosts yokagura, traditional dance performances retelling local legends. Other shrines in the area include Aratate Shrine, known for good fortune in love and the arts, and Kushifuru Shrine, where Amaterasu’s grandson is said to have descended from the heavens.
Dinner was a delightful Japanese meal, oddly paired with Hawaiian music, a quirky but enjoyable touch. As we planned the next day’s ride, Linda brought up a scenic route she’d read about: the northwestern outer ridgeline of the Aso caldera, also known as “Milk Road.” With its dramatic views, it’s tempting enough that we just might detour off-course to experience it.
Sayonora,
Matt, Linda, and Meg