Day 9 - Takachiho to Aso
Distance: 86.6 km Ride Time: 4 hours 58 minutes Elevation: 1562 m
We began our morning the Japanese way, with a traditional breakfast of grilled fish, tofu, rice, seaweed, a raw egg, and seasonal vegetables. As we sipped tea/coffee and reviewed our route, we prepared for a day filled with climbing, cool mist, and unforgettable scenery.
Our journey kicked off with a steady climb right out of Takachiho, tracing a gentle 3–5% grade past lush forests, a dramatic gorge, and several Shinto shrines (jinja, 神社) sacred spaces where spirits (kami) are enshrined. These sites reminded us of Japan’s deep reverence for nature and ancestry.
Seventeen kilometers in, we spotted two tires at the roadside, one wrapped in snow chains. Matt and Linda, being from the U.S., quickly recognised the sign: we were about to hit a mountain pass. And sure enough, at 30 km we found ourselves climbing through the senbonsakura “a thousand cherry trees” blanketed in mist and light rain. The air was cold, and our toes were beginning to go numb.
At the 40 km mark, a missed turn had us descending into the next town while our GPS struggled to recalibrate. The new route would take us around the southern edge of the town, but frozen fingers and rumbling stomachs led us to detour into town instead, in search of warmth.
We rolled into a 7-Eleven (a true lifesaver), grabbed hot coffee to warm our hands, and refueled. That morning, we were without our support van because one of our teammates had to return to the previous hotel, someone had forgotten their cycling shoes two days ago!
After regrouping at another 7-Eleven (again thankful), we met up with Meg and Simon B., downed some salt tablets and chocolate, and took on our final major ascent: 15 km of serious climbing, with gradients spiking up to 15%.
At the summit, we were rewarded with a ride along the stunning Milk Road, a 45 km stretch of ridgeline showcasing the best of Kyushu’s natural beauty, rolling hills, sweeping grasslands, and panoramic mountain views. Our original plan was to descend into Aso after 10 km, but a road closure forced us to cycle an extra 10 km before the final thrilling (and chilly) 10 km descent into the caldera.
We double-checked our brake pads (for good reason!) and coasted down a steep, winding road into the volcanic basin of Mount Aso.
We made it to the hotel and immediately headed for the onsen, a hot spring bath to soak away the cold and fatigue. That night, weary but happy, we stumbled upon a pizza place that was miraculously open on a Sunday. After dinner, we capped the night at the quirky but delightful Gentle Club, complete with a full bar, golf simulators, and a BB-gun shooting range. (Don’t worry, no real guns here, strict post-WWII laws still apply!)
Mount Aso (阿蘇山) is not just any mountain, it’s one of the world’s largest volcanic calderas, formed by ancient, massive eruptions. The caldera, more than 100 km in circumference, cradles rural towns, rice fields, and pastures dotted with grazing cows and horses. The active crater in its center is a constant reminder of nature’s power and beauty.
As we wrapped up the evening, Joel reminded us of the Japanese phrase “Ichi-go ichi-e” “one time, one meeting.” It captures the fleeting, precious nature of each moment and invites us to fully embrace and appreciate every experience.
Sayonora,
Matt, Linda and Meg
