Day 10 - Aso to Yufuim
Distance: 70.5 km Elevation: 1260 m Ride Time: 4 hours 33 mins
Some of us barely slept last night, minds racing in anticipation of today’s epic ride. We couldn’t stop thinking about that thrilling 10 km descent into Aso the day before, because what goes down must inevitably come back up!
The day kicked off with a breathtaking 10 km ride through the heart of the Aso UNESCO Global Geopark, weaving through rice paddies and golden wheat fields in the wide volcanic basin. Then came the real test: a grueling 14 km climb with grades reaching up to 17% that brought us back onto the ridge of the caldera, famously known as Milk Road. The views from the top were nothing short of spectacular, with the caldera sprawling below us.
As we continued along rolling hills, we entered Aso-Kuju National Park (阿蘇くじゅう国立公園)—home to the towering peaks of Mount Aso, Mount Yufu, and the Kuju Mountains, the highest in Kyushu. Established in 1934, it’s one of Japan’s oldest national parks and a dream for cyclists, hikers, and geology lovers. Taking in the sweeping volcanic landscapes around us felt like riding through the Earth’s living core.
The long, steady 14 km climb to Makinoto Pass was challenging but deeply rewarding. At the summit, we regrouped over coffee and on the way we passed a quirky topiary park filled with shrubbery shaped like animals and all kinds of whimsical creations. Later on we met other cyclists, including a couple who were on a wild bike-packing adventure stretching across New Zealand, Australia, and now Japan.
From there, we were rewarded with a thrilling 30 km descent into Yufuin, a picturesque town known for its charm, creativity, and bubbling hot springs. With the volcanoes naturally come hot springs, which feed some of the country's best onsen towns including Kurokawa, Yufuin and Beppu.
Yufuin (由布院) is no ordinary onsen town. While it has the traditional allure of hot springs, it also boasts boutique cafés, art galleries, and stylish shops. The vibe is more chic and cosmopolitan than rustic, making it a popular destination for day trippers and culture seekers alike.
We stopped for a refreshing lunch of cold soba noodles and tempura (grating our own fresh wasabi!) before checking into our hotel. Joel, our ever-insightful guide, shared another moment of learning and introduced us to the concept of "Wa" (和) a deeply rooted Japanese principle of harmony, balance, and community. It’s a value that shapes everything here, from social interactions to the way towns like Yufuin seem to blend tradition and modernity so effortlessly.
After such an epic ride, soaking in the onsen was the perfect way to relax and reflect. Before dinner, a few of us wandered into town for a bit of laundry and found ourselves at a tiny stand-up sake and food bar. The lively owner was an absolute character, she kept us laughing and entertained as we waited for our clothes to dry.
Back at the hotel, we gathered for another amazing meal. It’s hard to believe we only have three more days of cycling left. Each day seems to top the last. Today’s ride was definitely one of our favorites! Can’t wait to see what’s next.
Sayonora,
Matt, Linda and Meg
