Day 11 - Yufuin to Beppu
Distance: 33.8 km Ride Time: 1 hr 44 min Elevation Gain: 444 m
Today was meant to be a recovery ride after three tough days of climbs, but like a classic Duncan yo-yo, what goes down must come back up. Our now familiar routine continues: descend blissfully into a town in the evening, then tackle the climb back out the following morning. Spoiler alert: tomorrow will be no different!
We decided to take it easy and start a little later today. The real reason? A croissant craving. We were holding out for the local French bakery, which didn’t open until 9:00 a.m. On our way there, we passed a peaceful temple, which Joël pointed out with a bit of cultural insight: on New Year’s Eve, temple bells ring 108 times in a Buddhist ritual called joya no kane, each chime representing the cleansing of a worldly passion. The final bell strikes as the new year begins, offering hope for a less burdened year ahead.
We arrived at the bakery just before opening and joined the growing queue. Once inside, it was all smiles, warm pastries, and strong coffee. The vibe was so relaxed that we stayed for a second round. It was hard to leave the cozy café behind.
Eventually, we got moving and began a steady, gentle climb before enjoying a beautiful descent through rolling hills. Our first stop was Shidaka Lake, a scenic gem with tranquil waters, campsites, hiking trails, and boat rentals. It is the kind of place you can imagine spending a lazy summer afternoon.
After soaking in the lake views, we continued on to Beppu, arriving with time to explore before checking into our hotel. Our chosen detour? A visit to the legendary Kifune Castle, also known as Gold Snake Castle. The castle is linked to Genji Tsui, a figure from the Heian era (794–1185 AD), and houses the famed guardian deity, a golden snake known as Kimbai White Dragon King.
Legend says the snake is connected to Benzaiten, the goddess of rivers, agriculture, and fortune. Locals believe that touching the snake can bring wealth and yes, we touched it! Surprisingly, it was warm and smooth, not at all like what you would expect from a serpent.
Afterwards, we grabbed a quick bite to eat, checked into the hotel, and made a beeline for the onsen, the perfect way to relax tired muscles. After a delicious Japanese dinner and a night cap we rounded out our day here just beautifully.
Today also marked Trent’s final ride with us. We are sad to see him go but we are grateful for the time we shared together. We are hoping our paths cross again someday. Sayonara, Trent! Onward we go for our final two riding days!
Cheers!
Matt, Linda, and Meg
